Gandhi Tour of Israel & Palestine
Saturday, September 04, 2004
 
This reflection was offered by Kara, one of the companion travelers on the Gandhi tour, about the checkpoint on Sunday, August 29:

The Bethlehem Checkpoint

Last night, on the way to Bethlehem, we had our first "real" checkpoint experience. I want to make it clear that we've been through many checkpoints but due to the priviledge of being with important people--and more accurately--important American people, we were able to cross with little to no difficulty. Last night, however, was different.


It wasn't difficult for "us" as Americans but for our friends, Radwon and Numan, our Palestinian camera men. All throughout the week they had the ease of riding with us--allowed through because of who they were with. They are both former university students who were majoring in T.V./media/music. Due to hard economic times generated from the Wall, their University classes have been cancelled and now they are trying some freelance work.


Over the past week we've spent 8-10 hours/day with them and have gotten to know them very well--we've shared meals, sang songs, shared stories about our children (and how they control our lives!) and laughed until our stomachs hurt. These are things friends do. And it was so hard to see my friends humilated and intimidated because of who they were--actually it's because of who they are PERCEIVED to be.

It's so ironic that the birthplace of Jesus is off-limits to certain populations--it's called area "A" which means Israelis can't go there. Radwon is Palestinian but was born in an Israeli town and therefore has an Israeli passport and is forbidden to go to Bethlehem. If caught, he would have to pay a $5,000 fine. Numan, who's also Palestinian, was allowed in (by special permit to pass through Israel) but wan't allowed back out the way we came in...because we were going back through Israel. Anyway, this is all so confusing and intentionally crazy-making.

So, we stopped and a young woman with a very large machine gun comes on our bus and asks for our passports. She doesn't smile. She looks at our passports and returns them but takes a long look at theirs and makes a face of disgust; she's clearly not happy. She asks them to go with her. People are very concerned and one of our American delegates goes along. They concluded that Radwan is not allowed to enter and Numan was told he could enter but he could not come back out of the checkpoint. They both had special passes that was to allow them access to these areas but the soldiers decided to override these permits. I was told the randomness is what'll drive you mad....

So we entered the city without our friend and were given a private tour of the Church of the Nativity. The beauty of the church was breathtaking; a special lighted tour just for us--with a full moon overhead and a cool breeze--can you imagine it? It's the place where Jesus was born.

After our tour, we climbed back on our airconditioned bus and headed to the checkpoint. Numan said to me, "I'm very worried about passing". He then dialed his mother on his cellphone--these have become their lifeline. We approached the checkpoint and were stopped and I thanked God the same woman was not there. A large young man with his machine gun walked down the isle inspecting our passports; all was silent. We aren't to say a word. He stops at Numan, the only one with a Palestinian ID card and starts asking him questions. Numan is humble, nervous and tries to smile. Whatever is said seems to satisfy (I think it's our presence) and the soldier starts to walk away but then stops and asks Numan another question. Numan quickly gets his camera equipment and opens the bag. Quick inspection and he's done. He leaves and we all take a deep breath. He tells me that if we weren't with him, he might've been beaten. We found Radwon waiting for us at our hotel; he had waited an hour for a cab and during his wait was taunted by the soldiers, "Go stand there" "No, move over there" "Didn't you hear me?"

There are about 60 such checkpoints in the occupied West Bank. The West Bank is about the size of Bexar County. And there are over 600 other types of closures--partial checkpoints, roadblocks, earth mounds, earth walls, trenches. There are 44 observations towers that house soldiers with guns.

Can you imagine it?

- posted by M @ 8:28 AM
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